I really want to get a dressage saddle for me and my thoroghbred horse. I am kinda tall and thin and he is kinda boney if that helps. I also would prefer long flaps and deep seats. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I meant by deep seat and long flaps that there are some dressage saddles that really don’t have those two attributes, but they are still dressage saddles. I don’t really know what size my jumping saddle is but I think it is 15, 15 and 1/2 or 16 inches.
I don’t fit into 17" saddles, I’m pretty sure my saddle is 15-15 1/2", so I think I would need a 16".(?)
Long flaps and deep seats are the definition of a dressage saddle.
I have a Klimke, about $1200 and I love it. The best thing to do is to sit in it in the store and see how it fits. If you are thin, you may want a narrow twist. Probably look at a 17" saddle. With dressage saddles, you do want something a bit bigger than what you normally ride in. My close contact is a 16.5" and my dressage is a 17". While the inches size of a saddle is the actual seat – the bigger saddles also have longer flaps. It will be better to get something a bit bigger, to get the longer flaps. Also, as you age, your body shape will change and that bigger seat will be helpful. I went from a 16" from 9th grade through my early 20’s to needing a 17", basically because my butt got bigger….
See if the store will let you take it out on loan – State Line Tack near me does this now – sit it on your horse and make sure it fits your horse. Ride in it without stirrups for a few minutes to see how it fits.
With spending this amount of money – this is what I did with both my new saddles and was glad I did. I did buy my first choice of saddle, but it is nice to know I had that chance in case it did not fit myself or my horse.
If your horse is naturally thinner framed, then get a saddle that fits him now. If he is boney, a bit under muscle and/or underweight – you might do well to get a saddle that is a bit wider and use extra padding until his back fits the saddle. Either that or get one with the gullet changing system.
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Hi,
When I horse-ride, especially when I canter, my instructor says I lean to the left: with my seat bones, and I turn with my shoulders to the left as well, AND tilt my head to the left, especially when i go round corners, in fact, very much when I go round corners. And, my right seat bone comes up cause I don’t have any weight on it… basically I lean all to the left, especially round corners, and is this maybe because I am left-handed???
How do I stop this?
Ask your trainer ,,
WE can not, see you ride
this is really a question for your trainer,, I would like to help you
But, no one can really tell you with out seeing you ride
And no its not because your left handed,,
Hey your paying your trainer have her tell you ..
Good luck
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My new loan 6yr sports horse mare, is very unbalanced in the trot and canter on the lunge and riding (although I am not working her in the canter at the minute) With side reins on she is a lot better but I want to encourage her to find her own balance and not rely on the side reins.
Any ideas all suggestions welcome 
Circles and transitions. Lots and lots of both of those. Also backing up hills will help build hind quarter muscles which will help her collect herself while moving forward. It will take several weeks to notice much of a difference in the way she moves as it will take a while to strenghten the muscles needed to collect and balance herself. So don’t give up too soon. Good luck!
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It is my biggest dream to become an equestrian rider. You know, compete in the olympics and travel the world with my horse. But sadly I have never taken horseback riding lessons and can’t afford them or a horse. How can I make my dreams come true?
You will never be too old. Some of the greatest riders I know didn’t start riding until they were well over 40. You should check with local barns in your area and see if you can’t volunteer or work in exchange for lessons. More barns will do this as help is always short- same with money. This way you not only learn the responsibility of owning and caring but get to learn how to ride.
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ok my cuzin lives around whitehall.. not nessasarley in it though and she wants horse back ride-ing lessons .. so dose anyone know any good places out there that can give lessons .. and also where they shelter horses because after she get lessons her mom will but her a horse.. so if the sell horses at that place to that would be great. … but anyway. if you answere his questin plz give me the places ste and how much the coast for lessons.. thanks!
Go to google maps
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl
search "whitehall PA stables"
Call around, look at reviews.
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Have you ever though about riding your horse barefoot, with the wind whipping through your hair? It does sound nice, doesn’t it? However, you might want to think twice about this idea and instead consider some suitable riding apparel. Riding apparel has a very important purpose – keeping you, the rider, safe as you go galloping around.
Boots are a must, whether you are an adherent of the English or Western style of riding. Wearing boots is not just for riding, but for all activities around horses including feeding, grooming, exercising, etc. After all, those hooves are very heavy and if your horse accidentally steps on your toes; well, let’s just say you’ll wish you’d worn boots. For riding, a boot with a heel is the best choice as it will prevent your foot from slipping through the stirrups. However, for working in your stable, you may want to pick up a pair of paddock boots or work boots. They’ll be more sturdy and durable, and often more comfortable.
Not very many people are excited about wearing a riding helmet. After all, one would hardly call them stylish. At the same time, a riding helmet can quite literally be a lifesaver in the event of a fall. Your baseball cap or cowboy hat will not provide adequate protection. Shop for a well-rated helmet specifically designed for horseback riding. Vented models can keep you cooler.
Long pants, breeches or jodhpurs should be worn when riding. They’ll protect your legs from the saddle and horse’s sweat and from brush, sticks and the elements.
In competitive riding, you’ll have to stow your regular riding wear and pull out your show clothes – whether riding English or Western. Each style has clothing requirements, and each season brings new styles. If you aren’t following both the rules and the styles, you’ll find it hard to win ribbons.
If the show you’re riding in asks for hunt seat attire, then you’ll have to wear a riding shirt which is either white or pinstriped. You’ll also need breeches, a hunting cap, dress riding boots and a wool riding jacket. Riding gloves are also customary in these events. Breeches and jacket can be any dark color, but you may want to find out what colors are “in” before making an investment in them. Being out of style may not win you favor with the judges or the audience.
You’ll need to dress formal for dressage riding. You’ll need a white shirt, a stock tie (which should be fastened with a horse-themed pin), white or tan breeches, black jacket and dress boots, as well as a helmet or hunt cap. If it is a saddle seat competition, then you’ll want dark jodhpurs, jodhpur boots, a riding derby, a dark jacket and white riding shirt.
Western riders wear different clothes depending on their gender. Men will need Western shirts, ties, belts (leather with silver buckles), felt cowboy hats, riding boots, jeans and chaps. Women will be attired in Western shirts, vest or jacket, riding boots, felt hats and of course, jeans and chaps. In more intense sports, the ties and silver belt buckles are not required.
Susanne Malloy
http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/equestrian-riding-apparel-521423.html
Newmarket
Newmarket is the home of the British Jockey Club, remains the headquarters of many national and international racing organisations. Newmarket thrived because of its marketplace and a profitable trade in accommodating travellers and so it continued for centuries, until King James I “discovered” its Heath in February 1604 as a fantastic leisure venue for his court and Newmarket’s sporting relations began.
Newmarket is well served for trouble-free transport links to the remainder of East Anglia: the A14 takes you in about 20 minutes to Cambridge in the west, where you can benefit from the delights of the ancient University Town. Newmarket racing is ingrained in Suffolk history and is alive and kicking turf today as one of the most exciting racecourses in the UK. Newmarket early in the morning is a strange place, busy with the activities of hundreds of centaur-like figures, nonchalant but serious, as though unaware of the danger and absurdity of answering rich menâs whims by teaching racehorses to run faster.
Charles IIâs involvement from the mid 17th century secured Newmarketâs future at the heart of British racing. The local history of Newmarket is inextricably tied up with the history of horseracing. The historic centre of English racing is today home to the world renowned Newmarket racecourse, the National Stud and the National Horse Racing Museum.
Racing
Newmarket is on the up and up, boasting world class racing and facilities and the strikingly picturesque July Course offering its own exclusive brand of entertainment over the summer months.
Bronze Age barrows, showing proof of early activity, were dotted across Newmarket Heath until the 19th century when they were removed to make better conditions for horse racing. The Rowley Mile hosts racing of the highest calibre during the Spring and Autumn, including two of Britain’s five Classic races in early May: the 1000 and 2000 Guineas.
Racehorses
Of course, no visit to Newmarket is complete without visiting sites associated with its rich sporting heritage as the historic home of horse racing. You can visit the world prominent National Stud, take in a tour of the National Horse Racing Museum, and even arrange a tour of the townâs training facilities and gallops. The town has a exclusive environment consisting of the world’s most extensive training grounds (situated on the world’s largest expanse of tended grassland), over 2500 racehorses, some 70+ licensed trainers and more than 60 stud farms where the racehorses of the future are bred.
Course
The Rowley Mile racecourse sports a brand new grandstand which is a great feature of this lovely racetrack. The distinctive thing about teh Rowley mile course is that it is a straight track and has a large dip about two and a half furlongs out which can catch out three year olds, as you need to have a exceedingly well balanced horse to keep up an even tempo going into the dip and then have the endurance to come back up the dip to finish out the race. In the autumn the Rowley Course stages two further outstanding meetings in the Cambridgeshire and Champions’ Day race days.
Have a fantastic day out at Newmarket racing.
Keith Driscoll
http://www.articlesbase.com/online-gambling-articles/uk-horse-racing-at-newmarket-racecourse-best-in-the-world-196984.html
Buying the wrong western saddle is a very common occurrence in the western riding world. It’s also a very expensive learning experience. You can skip this painful lesson by avoiding the top seven western saddle buying mistakes.
1. Buying Pretty. While we’d all like a nice looking saddle, letting looks drive your buying decision is asking for trouble. The quality of the saddle materials and the construction are far more important than the look of a saddle. A poorly made saddle can look awfully pretty, especially to the uninitiated. Don’t fall for this one.
2. Buying Image. Have dreams of riding the range and working the cattle drive? Or maybe riding to an NFR championship buckle in barrel racing? While the cowboy and cowgirl dreams and imagery can be strong and enticing, don’t let those images determine your saddle choice. Choose a saddle type that fits the actual type of riding that you’ll be doing.
3. Buying Cheap. Cheap saddles are not a bargain. Poor quality materials and construction will shorten saddle life, and, more importantly, will cause discomfort and impair movement in your horse. If you can’t afford at least a middle-of-the-road new saddle ($500 and up), then buying used is a great solution. Quality saddles last a long time, making buying a “pre-owned” saddle a smart buy.
4. Buying Dumb. You need to educate yourself on some saddle basics before buying. Ride in as many different saddles as you can. Talk to all the horse people you know about their saddles. Pick the brain of knowledgeable saddle folks. And, always, before purchasing a saddle, know the seller’s tryout and return policies.
5. Buying Selfish. You found a saddle that’s high quality, pretty, and fits you well. You’re all set right? Wrong. You’re forgetting one very important partner in this deal – your horse. If the saddle doesn’t fit your horse well, than the rest doesn’t matter. Make sure you understand the basics of horse fit and determine beforehand whether the saddle will be a good fit for your horse.
6. Buying One-Size-Fits-All. While you shouldn’t need a different saddle for every horse you ride, one saddle will not fit every horse you run across. The best approach is to choose a saddle that will fit the basic physical type of horse that you’ll ride. For instance, I ride Quarter Horses that are on the smaller size. I have a saddle that will fit most horses of this type. If you ride more than one type of horse, you’ll need multiple saddles.
7. Buying Brand (or Endorsement). This one is a little trickier. Buying a well-established brand is not a bad idea. You just need to be aware that a number of saddle brands have been around a long time and the quality of their saddles have varied significantly over time. The quality can also vary over their current product lines. Never just blindly buy by brand without thoroughly inspecting the quality of the saddle in consideration. Additionally, celebrity endorsement can seem like a stamp of approval, but it really doesn’t mean more than that the celebrity is receiving payment for use of his or her name. Very few celebrities have any input into the design and construction of the saddles bearing their name.
Many riders have a tack room full of saddles that didn’t work out. Others are constantly buying and selling saddles in search of just the right one. It doesn’t have to be this way. If you do your homework beforehand to truly understand your horse’s and your own needs, you can purchase the one saddle that will be a match for you, your horse, and your riding activities.
Beth Stefani
http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/western-saddles-top-7-buying-mistakes-112044.html
The perfect team lives out in my back field.
This team of twenty lives together twenty-four hours a day . They communicate without cell phones, blackberries or email. They come from diverse backgrounds and each member is the product of a different training system. They must share all resources including food, water and space. Despite living under what we would consider less than optimum conditions this team functions very efficiently and successfully meets its goals.
Horses have had a lot of time to perfect their team-building skills. Since the evolution of the first horse millions of years ago they have lived and survived in groups. Despite the fact that our horses have been domesticated for thousands of years they still have the instincts and responses of their wild ancestors. Survival is a very clear goal that is shared by every horse in the herd and all behaviours in the herd are directed towards that goal.
This is a team that is committed to getting results. When your goal is survival you take accountability very seriously. If a herd member signals danger no one suggests that they schedule a series of meetings to discuss the issue; they go, they go fast, and they go together. This ability to move without hesitation as a unit is a result of the respect and trust among the herd members.
Every herd needs a leader. The herd leader is the horse that most consistently demonstrates calm self assurance and the ability to âwalk the talkâ Most people cannot identify the herd leader when observing the herd as his behavior is not overt. His function is not to micro-manage but to constantly scan and be aware of the environment around and within the herd. A herd is a dynamic entity that must constantly adjust its actions and behaviours to the changing environment in order to function efficiently and safely.
Observers are often shocked when they first watch horses interact. Horses assert leadership by pushing each other physically out of their space. This can involve biting and kicking and at times it can seem quite aggressive. This aggression is short-lived though and the two combatants are usually eating quietly side by side or grooming each other moments later. Horses, unlike humans, do not perceive conflict in the group as a win-lose scenario. When one horse asserts himself over another he then takes on the responsibility of providing leadership. The less dominant horse has not lost a battle as much as he has gained a leader. Conflict is a healthy and necessary component of group interaction.
I am not about to suggest that we all start pushing each other around at the office water cooler. There are lessons that we can learn however from the equine herd about trust and respect, communication, positive conflict and team leadership.
If you would like to learn more about creating and leading great teams you are welcome to spend some time in my back field.
Laura Hunter
http://www.articlesbase.com/leadership-articles/the-perfect-team-743189.html
